Pilgrimage

Pilgrimage: Winchester to Canterbury

Introduction: There is a trackway dating from pre-history that still exists in parts today linking SE with SW England. It probably started off as a drovers’ trail as well as a trade route for goods to and from Continental Europe. For the most part, it follows the chalk escarpment of the North Downs as the dense forests of the Kent and Sussex Weald were impenetrable at the time.
Subsequently, in mediaeval times, the ancient way was used by pilgrims travelling by foot or horseback to Becket’s tomb in Canterbury. Chaucer’s famous "Canterbury Tales" describes a journey between London and Canterbury, but Winchester was also a mustering place for pilgrims from the West Country and France. Before Becket’s sanctification, Winchester already possessed an even older pilgrimage site in the Saxon tomb of St.Swithun and was moreover the capital of England until the middle of the 13th.Century before being supplanted by London.
Thus, the Winchester/Canterbury trail became known as the "Pilgrims’ Way". Much later, another trail to Canterbury and beyond known as the "North Downs Way" was created although its Western end does not start until Farnham. It sometimes follows the identical route of the older road but often takes a more scenic alternative through woodland etc. although the two ways always remain broadly parallel.
The Modern Pilgrims: My name is Keith Andrews and I am the sole "pilgrim" to have completed every section of the route in this narrative, either on foot or by bicycle. My wife, Patricia, does not cycle but did all of the walking sections with me. We were also joined occasionally by a friend, Colin. The journey took 5 years to complete in stages; far longer than expected due to serious illness midway. Nevertheless, on the resumption of good health, we carried on and finally made it!
Philosophy: Many people undertake the journey for religious reasons as, one assumes, did most of the mediaeval pilgrims. Some are interested in church architecture and other ancient buildings with historical associations found along the route. Some simply go to enjoy the countryside.
My own first introduction to The Pilgrims’ Way was during a cycling trip when I briefly came across a party of walkers passing through Kemsing in Kent. I decided there and then that I would make the pilgrimage myself one day. I was no more than 15 years old at the time. More than 40 years later, it became a reality. The journey was made because I enjoy outdoor activities and I like the sense of historical continuity brought about by taking part in an 800-year old tradition.
It is certain that the great majority of the early pilgrims covered the 120-mile journey in contiguous daily stages over the course of a week or two, staying in a wide choice of hostels and inns overnight. As I now live in East Sussex, it was relatively easy to complete the journey in daily sections over a much longer period of time.
One essential requirement is that the journey must be undertaken under one’s own power. Much of the route is either on metalled roads or bridleways so a bicycle is suitable for such stretches. However, most of the stages were completed on foot.
The Route: This record is just the story of one person’s experiences; it is not intended to give detailed directions of the route. There are several books that already do this and I used three for this purpose. They are:
A Guide to the Pilgrims’ Way and North Downs Way by Christopher John Wright (Constable & Co.Ltd. ISBN 0 09 464180 3) in which the route to the 2 Ways is clearly described together with reasonable historical references. Unfortunately, my copy is at least 20 years old but I’m not sure if it has since been re-published;
Walking the Pilgrim Ways by Keith Sugden (David & Charles plc ISBN 0 7153 9408 8) which is vague with regard to the route but the style is pleasantly mystical and the historical references are good;
North Downs Way (OS National Trail Guide) by Neil Curtis and Jim Walker (Aurum Press Ltd. ISBN 1 85410 537 X) which uses the appropriate parts of OS maps to back up the dialogue and is thus first class for route-finding from Farnham onwards.
There are some places where the exact historical line of the Pilgrims’ Way is uncertain. Other sections (particularly between Winchester and Farnham) are, these days, distinctly unpleasant for walking or cycling as they have become major trunk roads. I can see no merit in suffering these stretches just to be a slave to historical authenticity. The early pilgrims would doubtless have diverted from the normal trail occasionally to search for food, accommodation or to visit an off-route shrine. My choice was to find a quieter and safer parallel route where prudent to do so. Beyond Farnham, the North Downs Way is generally more scenic than the Pilgrims’ Way where they run separately, thus I had no hesitation in selecting it when available for this reason.
Diary:
20.8.01. around Winchester: The journey started with a leisurely visit to the splendid historical City of Winchester accompanied by Patricia. There is an easy-to-find information centre which gives as much detail about the City as anybody could wish. My view is that the pilgrim must observe at least the following two customs, duly performed by myself on this day, in order to strike the right mood.
Firstly, one should visit the Hospital of St.Cross which lies 1-mile due South of the City centre. It was founded in the 12th.Century to look after the poor and is now the UK’s oldest charitable foundation. To this day, any pilgrim who asks for the "Wayfarer’s Dole" at the gatehouse will receive free-of-charge a gift of bread and ale, a tradition that has persisted for more than 800 years. In the early years, penniless pilgrims assembling at Winchester might have expected a sustaining meal but now portions are purely symbolic so don’t skip lunch. The small pottery beaker in which the ale is served may be purchased for a modest price and today’s rich pilgrim would surely wish to offer a cash donation in addition. By far the most pleasant way to reach the Hospital is by the footpath along the banks of the River Itchen. It is well signposted from the City centre and may be joined at the watermill and bridge lying just a few paces behind Alfred the Great’s statue.
The other essential visit is of course to the Cathedral. It is worthwhile waiting for the official tour lasting about one hour. The Cathedral contains the remains of several Saxon Kings and one Norman (William Rufus). The site of the shrine of St.Swithin is marked although the original shrine itself was destroyed during the reformation. This Saxon bishop was renowned for his exceptional charity and piety and requested that upon his death he should be buried with the common people outside the Cathedral. Some time later, it was felt that his status befitted a grander resting place inside the building so his bones were duly moved. The story goes that Heaven was so outraged by this act of misplaced veneration that it rained non-stop for 40 days, hence the current superstition that rain on St.Swithun’s Day (15th.July) is followed by a prolonged bout of wet weather.
21.8.01. Winchester to King’s Worthy: The Pilgrims’ Way starts at the West door of Winchester Cathedral and leaves the City in a Northerly direction along a footpath beside the Itchen and its tributaries. My wife and I had no difficulty in following the directions given in Mr.Wright’s book although some minor features (e.g. stiles) have now disappeared. The walk is quite pleasant and, despite skirting the grounds of a factory at one point, leads to the churchyard in the village of King’s Worthy after about two miles. The scallop shell, the international sign of the pilgrim, appears on a commemorative stone in the wall of a new church hall built in the year 2000 as part of a millennium project. At this point, we retraced our steps back to Winchester, intending to pick up the trail from King’s Worthy on another occasion.
16.10.01. King’s Worthy to Alton: This section was completed by bicycle. Patricia dropped me off in King’s Worthy village from where I first set out in the "wrong" direction (West) for rather less than ½-mile to have a look at St.Swithun’s church in Headbourne Worthy. This Saxon church contains a rood screen of international renown but it was locked so unfortunately I did not see it. Back on track, the route passes along a good road for cycling through Abbots Worthy, Martyr Worthy, Itchen Abbas and Itchen Stoke. Opposite the village church is Water Lane which lives up to its name in wet weather by quite literally turning into a stream running down to the Itchen. A very short way down leads to a small parking area then a bridge over the river which is believed to be the place where the pilgrims crossed. There is a very pretty footpath on the other side heading East, however, it was more appropriate to continue cycling along the road into New Alresford. At this point came a break with authenticity. I left this town to the North then shortly turned East into the minor road leading through Bighton, Medstead and Beech. This runs parallel to the valley road (now the A31) which the pilgrims would almost certainly have followed. As it was, my lane was pleasant with a moderate climb into Medstead and a corresponding drop beyond. I swept into Alton to the smell of the mash from the Bass brewery. Some 19 miles had been covered taking 2 hours including detours and stops.
21.11.01. Alton to Farnham: This also was completed by bicycle. The direct route along the A31 is about 8 miles but I avoided this and took a 10-mile dog-leg heading through Holybourne and Binsted into the Alice Holt forest, once the haunt of outlaws. The first part along a minor road was reasonable enough but it then joins the A325 which was far busier than I had imagined. Despite looking promising on the map, my advice to cyclists is to avoid it as in reality it is both dangerous and polluted with diesel fumes. This road soon crosses the County boundary into Surrey and shortly beyond that I turned off onto the ridge road B3384 and thence down the hill into Farnham. My route was fast taking only ¾-hour but I should have taken a little longer and selected quieter lanes.
22.11.01. around Farnham: Patricia and I had originally planned to take a short walk along the North Downs Way which starts in this town. However, the weather was a bit depressing so we had a look around the town instead. It is mostly Georgian and generally very pleasant. There is a Norman castle (closed in winter) and the old vicarage by the parish church was once a hostelry for pilgrims.
8.5.02. Farnham to Newlands Corner: The route out of Farnham was started on foot. Using the OS National Trail Guide, Patricia and I joined the NDW at its start (the A31 crossroads just downhill from the railway station). We followed it out of town for around 2 or 3 miles until the track hits the minor road running N into Runfold. This is pleasant and easy walking (and would be mostly OK for cycling) alongside water meadows by the River Wey and through parkland and woodland. At the road, we retraced our steps and had lunch in Farnham town, after which we took the car out to the place we had reached and off-loaded the bike. It was then all fast and easy cycling along good roads, firstly the short distance N into Runfold then E along the PW through Seale and Puttenham with my wife driving the "sag wagon". Beyond Puttenham, I decided to pick up the NDW again which narrows to a track through a golf course and several stretches of woodland. The car of course could not follow so Patricia was to drive to a pre-arranged location but she promptly got lost and went for an unscheduled tour of Guildford, ending up in the car park at Newlands Corner. This was a reasonable stopping point for the day so it became my new objective. Thank goodness for mobile phones. My route across country was extremely pleasant, the highlights being the picturesque crossing of the River Wey near Shalford and St.Martha’s Chapel on top of the Downs. However, shortly after the phonecall redirecting me to my new destination, things started to go wrong for me as well. Firstly, the area is very sandy which is fine for walkers and horse riders but not good for cyclists. I had to dismount and push on many occasions as my wheels sank into the ground, thus, progress became much slower than anticipated. Next, on my way downhill from St.Martha’s Chapel, I hit a tree root and fell head-first with the bike on top of me but there was no major damage to either man or machine. Also, in this area, there are several crossing trails and the directions seemed to run out. I missed the NDW but exited the woods onto Guildford Lane right opposite the PW which at that point runs just below and parallel to the NDW. So I took the PW route then turned uphill along the bridleway to Newlands Corner. The total distance covered by bike was 13 miles in the ridiculously slow time of 3 hours. In fact, the route at first was quite fast by "off-road" standards but the final leg was exhausting due to a combination of sand, steep hills, the fall (which was in truth quite heavy) and finally cramp in both thighs on the final climb. The latter forced lengthy rests even when so near to the finish. I was in the end relieved to see the car, notwithstanding the excellence of the countryside in this area.
26.6.02. Newlands Corner to Hackhurst Downs: A pleasant section along the NDW through woodland completed entirely on foot. We walked from Newlands Corner to the West Hanger car park in the late morning then retraced our steps. After lunch, we moved the car and continued out and back from West Hanger to the point where the NDW splits off from the drove road and runs downhill at Hackhurst Downs. This bridleway is wide, firm and fairly level throughout and would be excellent for cycling. My bike was in the back of the car but a tyre blew out through over-inflation. I had no spares so walking it had to be. But this was not a problem as it was a lovely day. A total distance of about 4 miles in a single direction.
7.8.02. Hackhurst Downs to Ranmore Common: This section was completed on foot which was the right decision as the way is a bit lumpy for the bicycle and, for the law-abiding, much of it is public footpath as opposed to bridleway. Starting from the car park at White Down, we had to go westwards through the woods to pick up the trail from where we left off at the last outing. Then it was a simple matter completing the loop eastwards along the NDW back to the starting point. We met our friend Colin for lunch who then transported us back to White Down having previously left our car in the National Trust car park at Ranmore Common. We then simply walked between the two before returning home. This is very pleasant walking country, most of it wooded, but with occasional splendid views across the Weald. A distance for the day of about 6 miles in total but only 4 of them in the right direction due to the loop in the morning.
13.8.02. Ranmore Common to Box Hill: Another relatively short section of about 3 miles in a single direction that is more suitable for hiking rather than cycling. So having parked the car at Ranmore Common, we set of along the NDW which drops gently into the Mole valley before climbing (steeply!) up Box Hill. The views are excellent, overlooking Denbies vineyard and the town of Dorking in the valley below. The only nasty bit is crossing the main road that runs N out of Dorking up to the M25. The directions for the NDW lead you ¼-mile up this road to an underpass then ¼-mile back again along the other side. We just crossed the road which, although busy, is not too difficult as it’s a dual carriageway with a central grass reservation. Shortly beyond the road, the River Mole crossing is well sign-posted either by stepping stones (our choice outwards) or a footbridge a short way downstream (on our return). The final climb up to the top of Box Hill is distinctly strenuous.
21.4.05. Box Hill to Gatton Park: After a long delay due to illness, we set off again on foot along the NDW trackway in the company of Colin. Much of this section is wooded but with frequent panoramic views across the Weald. It is quite testing as the path moves up and down the escarpment. We took a short detour across the motorway footbridge for a fine lunch at "The Sportsman", Mogador, before returning to the trackway for the final easy section to Gatton Park. The total distance walked was about 7 miles. The weather was perfect; a very pleasant day indeed in all respects.
8.8.05. Gatton Park to Gangers Hill: The first part of the day’s outing, from Gatton Park to Caterham viewpoint, was completed by bicycle. The route goes along Gatton Bottom, across the busy A23 at Merstham, over the M23 and then along Spring Bottom Lane. This is easy cycling, at first all downhill then reasonably flat in the valley. However, this is followed by a vicious but relatively short climb up White Hill Lane to War Coppice Road, also quite hilly, leading to the viewpoint. The distance was 6 miles which took me 40 minutes in view of the challenging terrain although it was all on tarmac. There is some off road parking at this viewpoint, so, after a packed lunch, Patricia and I set out on foot along the NDW with the objective of seeking out a car park from which to start the next leg of the journey. The track drops to the A22 which is crossed by a footbridge and then leads to the Winders Hill area. Much of this is private road leading to industrial premises so we continued a little further up to Flower Lane/Gangers Hill. There is not much suitable parking here either, so we retraced our steps and will decide what to do later about continuing. The scenery was splendid; well wooded with occasional great views across the Weald. The total distance walked was about 4 miles (2 miles single leg). Martha, our first grandchild, was born 4 days later in York.
26.8.05. Gangers Hill to Wrotham: This section was completed solo by bicycle without any car back-up. In fact, it’s quite easy to park at Gangers Hill if we had gone on just a little further. So having left the car in a suitable lay-by, I set off up the remainder of the hill, leading to The Ridge, Woldingham. At the roundabout, I took the B2024 exit which soon drops down fairly gently off the escarpment, turning left at the bottom onto the Pilgrims’ Way and into Kent at the same time. This is a nice cycling lane in the lee of the hills without much traffic. The lane eventually comes to a T-junction with Sundridge Hill, so, to avoid the climb, I turned right and cut down towards (but not across!) the M25 along Ovenden Road which comes out into the fairly busy Sundridge Road. This runs alongside the motorway for a while before meeting a roundabout. I went straight ahead here, shortly turning right over a motorway bridge to join the PW West leading directly into Otford. The PW East continues the other side of the village going past Kemsing and finally reaching Wrotham. The route as good for cycling with little traffic apart from a couple of short sections. It is undulating with one drop but no major climbs (other than on the way back of course). The total distance cycled was 19 miles single in comfortably under 2 hours. I came back via Knockholt which holds the high ground for longer. It is the same distance but more built-up so the outer leg was the nicer ride.
13.9.05. Wrotham to Snodland: A straightforward section completed on foot in the company of our friend, Colin. We left one car in the car park off Snodland High Street then drove back to Wrotham and walked between the two along the NDW. Much of this is wooded through Trosley Country Park and very pleasant. The trail eventually hits a lane which leads back to Snodland via Paddlesworth, a distance of about 7 miles. We finished with a nice lunch back at Wrotham in the Greene King pub there.
6.4.06. Snodland to Hollingbourne: I was unsupported on this leg because my wife was in Brighton looking after another granddaughter, Lotte Mae, born just one week earlier. So, this was another solo effort by bicycle. I hoped to find a route to Aylesford without having to cross the motorway. I was pleased to discover that this can be done by firstly taking a path under the railway line into some fishing grounds which can be accessed from the slip road south of Snodland station. I rode down this path keeping the railway on my right and the fishing lakes on the left. After about 1 mile it became necessary to cross the railway at a double style arrangement leading into the Leybourne Lakes Country Park. I went across this diagonally, skirting an industrial estate and came out at a roundabout. The next trick is to turn left towards New Hythe station and find another path parallel to the railway that comes out onto the road leading directly to Aylesford. It is all rather ugly and industrial but an effective short cut. It is then just a half-mile spin down to the delightful mediaeval bridge (not the main road bridge a bit further on) which I am sure at least some pilgrims would have used. Having crossed the Medway into the pretty village of Aylesford, I climbed out of the valley up to Little Kit’s Coty, a neolithic monument. Further on, there is Kit’s Coty itself (a burial chamber), accessed by a steep woodland path where the main road divides. Although it was a little off route, it was worth a visit as the main sarsen stones are still standing. The path ended with a steep flight of steps, not very bicycle friendly, but I made it to the road and had to descend again to the A229 underpass. Once the other side, it is necessary to go downhill a bit further to a Shell garage. The NDW and PW can be picked up behind the garage although old maps don’t make much sense in view of the new cross-channel rail link that has been built there. In fact you cross a new bridge built apparently to preserve the right of way which is not difficult to find. There is then a track climbing up into the woods, shortly after which the route divides. I ignored the NDW to the left and went straight ahead on what I believe was the original PW. This turns into a tarmac track before joining the Boxley road. This shortly bears right but the PW carries on straight ahead. It was then just a question of riding along this narrow, undulating lane through Detling, Thurnham and into Hollingbourne. The only impediment of note is the A249 which is best crossed by the footbridge named Jade’s Crossing after an eponymous child was killed there not very long ago. Apart from some woodland stretches which are steep and stony, most of this route including the off-road sections are suitable for cycling although it is slow and tiring. The countryside E of the Medway is very pleasant. The round trip was just over 26 miles (i.e.13 single) and took about 5 hours including short sightseeing and lunch stops.
22.6.06. Hollingbourne to Charing: Patricia and I did this section on foot after first parking the car at Charing then taking the train back to Hollingbourne. The total walking distance back to Charing is about 9 miles but the first one is off-track and involves a section along the road before joining the NDW/PW at "The Dirty Habit" pub. From there, the way is straight along the lee of the hills with some gentle undulations but no major climbs. Some parts are across open ground but much is within trees. The views across the Weald are very pleasant if not spectacular. There is a small bench at the chalk cross war memorial above Lenham where we had a packed lunch. The path eventually comes out above Charing village. This was a long, quite tiring but enjoyable stage.
10.8.06. Charing to Wye: Once again parking the car at Charing, Patricia and I climbed the hill, re-joined the trail and followed it through to Wye. It is very pleasant country, partly wooded and partly through fields. It was necessary to go about 1 mile beyond the point at Boughton Lees where the NDW splits. We ignored the N arm towards Canterbury and carried along the other loop to Wye in order to pick up the train back to Charing. This we did after enduring very light rain showers (not forecast) and a rather disappointing lunch at The Tickled Trout in Wye. The route was quick and easy being about 6 miles and taking a little over 2 hours.
15.8.06. Wye to Chilham: The car was firstly parked near Chilham station before boarding the train for one stop back to Wye. Patricia and I then retraced our steps back towards the NDW split enjoying good views of Boughton Aluph church and Soakham Downs, both yet to come on today’s route. Turning N at the split, the walking is easy until it starts to climb to the top of the Downs and into King’s Wood. This is the only serious climb of the day and is not as strenuous as some in Surrey. At the top, there are a couple of miles of easy woodland walking before the path drops off the Downs again into Mountain Street. This leads directly into the "chocolate box" village of Chilham where scenes from the film "Moll Flanders" were shot. This is one of the most scenic legs of the whole route with splendid views of the Stour Valley in places. We suffered a couple of very light rain showers, again not forecast, but the weather was otherwise cool and ideal for walking. The total distance for the day was around 6 miles.
19.8.06. Chilham to Canterbury: And so, 5 years but for one day after our start at Winchester, Patricia and I finally walked into Canterbury. The car was again left at Chilham and it was then a simple task to follow the NDW all the way into the City before boarding the train back to our start. Pausing to check the route just outside the village of Chartham Hatch, a local woman gave us a couple of home-grown peaches; a spontaneous and random act of kindness. Such a difference in quality from the artificially stored fruit offered by supermarkets. The route is partly on-road but passes mainly through orchards and woodland. It is undulating with one or two fairly steep climbs but they are not very long. The sting in tail is Golden Hill which has to be crossed before dropping down into the City when one is tired but very close to the final objective. We stopped at the West Gate in Canterbury intending to return simply as "tourists" on another occasion. The distance for the day is estimated at about 6 miles.
11.9.06. around Canterbury: The pilgrimage was rounded off with a guided tour of the Cathedral plus the official walking tour of the rest of the City which starts from the visitors’ centre. This made a fitting end to our long adventure.
Conclusion: It’s nice to do a themed journey and this one has more historical credentials than most. The high points were the two world class cities at either end and, scenically, the Surrey hills plus the area around Chilham. The low point was the serious illness half-way, although we never felt that we would have to abandon the project altogether. Finally, I hope that this narrative may inspire other pilgrims to make the trip and that this account will consequently be of some use.
K.J.Andrews
September 2006